El Calafate or Ushuaia—this choice divides anyone planning their first trip to Argentine Patagonia who doesn’t have the days (or the budget) to fit in both destinations. Both are in the country’s far south, but they deliver completely different experiences: El Calafate is about monumental ice and silence, while Ushuaia is about the end of the world, sailing, and sub-Antarctic forests. If you only have time for one, El Calafate is usually the more impactful choice—the Perito Moreno Glacier is an experience that’s hard to beat. But if your trip allows for 6 to 8 days, doing both in sequence is the ideal itinerary.
El Calafate or Ushuaia: for those who can only pick one, El Calafate offers the strongest visual impact in Patagonia with the Perito Moreno Glacier and the option to extend to El Chaltén. Ushuaia compensates with diversity—sailing the Beagle Channel, sub-Antarctic forest, and skiing in winter. With 7 to 8 days, you can do both in sequence, starting with Ushuaia.
Getting to El Calafate and Ushuaia
Both destinations have airports with direct flights from Buenos Aires (Aeroparque or Ezeiza). The flight to El Calafate (FTE) takes about 3h15; to Ushuaia (USH), 3h30. Aerolíneas Argentinas and Flybondi operate the routes, with prices that vary quite a bit depending on how far in advance you book—reserve at least 30 days ahead to snag reasonable fares.
There’s a direct flight between El Calafate and Ushuaia operated by Aerolíneas Argentinas, but it’s not daily in all seasons—in the low season, it may require a layover in Buenos Aires. The direct flight takes about 1h20. The overland alternative (bus) takes over 18 hours with a border crossing through Chile, and only makes sense for those seeking the adventure of the road. The most practical order is to fly from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia first and return via El Calafate (or the reverse), avoiding backtracking to your starting point.
Best time to visit and how many days in each destination
The ideal season for both destinations runs from October to April, with the peak between December and February (austral summer). During this period, temperatures range from 41 °F to 59 °F (5 °C to 15 °C) in El Calafate and from 36 °F to 54 °F (2 °C to 12 °C) in Ushuaia—yes, even in summer it’s cold, and the Patagonian wind doesn’t let up. Bring layers, a windbreaker, and gloves even in January. If you haven’t packed yet, check out the guide on how to dress for Patagonia with the complete layering system.
For El Calafate, 3 full days are enough: one for the Perito Moreno (boardwalks + boat tour or minitrekking), one for the excursion to the Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers, and one for rest or a day trip to El Chaltén. For Ushuaia, 3 to 4 days work well: one for Tierra del Fuego National Park, one for the Beagle Channel, and one or two for hikes at Martial Glacier or Laguna Esmeralda. Those doing both destinations should plan for 7 to 8 days total, including travel time.
El Calafate: glaciers, silence, and the Perito Moreno
El Calafate exists because of the ice. The town itself is small and functional—one main avenue with restaurants, agencies, and souvenir shops—but the Los Glaciares National Park 80 km (50 miles) away is the reason for the trip. The Perito Moreno Glacier is an ice wall with a 5 km (3-mile) front and 60 meters (197 feet) of height above the surface of Lake Argentino, and it’s among the few glaciers in the world that are still advancing.
The most accessible visit is via the boardwalks (a circuit of viewpoints with frontal views of the glacier—bring binoculars to see the calvings up close). For those who want to step on the ice, the Perito Moreno minitrekking includes a hike with crampons across the glacier’s surface—it’s the most memorable experience in El Calafate and often sells out weeks in advance during high season.
Beyond the Perito Moreno, the Lake Argentino boat tour takes you to the Upsala and Spegazzini glaciers—less famous, but equally impressive. El Calafate is also the gateway to El Chaltén and its trails to Mount Fitz Roy (see below). To figure out where to base yourself in town, check out our guide on where to stay in El Calafate.
Ushuaia: Beagle Channel, Tierra del Fuego, and the end of the world
Ushuaia sells an idea—”the end of the world”—and the city delivers. Surrounded by the snow-capped mountains of the Darwin Range and washed by the Beagle Channel, the capital of Tierra del Fuego has an atmosphere no other Patagonian destination replicates: it’s where civilization meets raw nature.
The must-do excursion is the Beagle Channel boat tour: catamarans leave the port and pass by Sea Lion Island, Bird Island, and the iconic Les Éclaireurs Lighthouse (which many people mistake for the “lighthouse at the end of the world”). The tour lasts about 2h30 and runs year-round. Tierra del Fuego National Park is 12 km (7.5 miles) from the city and offers short trails through lenga forests, lakes, and Bahía Lapataia—the endpoint of Route 3, which starts in Buenos Aires.
For those seeking longer hikes, Laguna Esmeralda (7 km round trip, moderate difficulty with peat bog sections) and Martial Glacier (accessed by chairlift + hike) round out the itinerary. In winter (June–September), Ushuaia transforms into a ski destination at Cerro Castor, the southernmost ski resort on the planet. For a day-by-day itinerary, see our Ushuaia in 4 days guide.
El Chaltén: the bonus that changes your itinerary
El Chaltén is a 3-hour bus ride from El Calafate and is Argentina’s trekking capital. The village is the starting point for the trail to Laguna de los Tres (the base of Mount Fitz Roy) and Laguna Torre—both moderately difficult, requiring no guide, and free. If the ice of the Perito Moreno is the strongest visual experience, Fitz Roy is the most physical one.
Those adding El Chaltén to their El Calafate itinerary need at least 2 extra days—one for the Fitz Roy trail (10 hours round trip) and another for Laguna Torre or rest. Agencies in El Calafate sell 1-day day trips, but the 6-hour bus ride (round trip) eats into your hiking time. For those who want to go beyond the Perito Moreno viewpoint, our guide Los Glaciares beyond the Perito Moreno details the options.
Comparison table: El Calafate vs. Ushuaia
| Criterion | El Calafate | Ushuaia |
|---|---|---|
| Main experience | Glaciers (Perito Moreno, Upsala, Spegazzini) | Beagle Channel + Tierra del Fuego National Park |
| Trekking | Ice minitrekking + El Chaltén (day trip) | Laguna Esmeralda, Martial Glacier, park trails |
| Boat tours | Lake Argentino (glaciers) | Beagle Channel (sea lions, lighthouse, penguin colony) |
| Snow/skiing | No | Yes (Cerro Castor, Jun–Sep) |
| Ideal number of days | 3 (+ 2 with El Chaltén) | 3 to 4 |
| Summer temperature | 41 °F to 59 °F | 36 °F to 54 °F |
| Wind | Strong and constant | Strong, with frequent rain |
| Average cost/day (estimate) | USD 100–150 (lodging + tours) | USD 120–180 (lodging + tours) |
| Best for | Those seeking maximum visual impact | Those wanting variety: sea, mountains, forest |
Which one to visit first in Patagonia
If you have to pick just one, El Calafate tends to win: the Perito Moreno Glacier is an instantly awe-inspiring experience that requires no physical preparation, and pairing it with El Chaltén adds world-class trekking to your itinerary. Ushuaia shines when you want variety — sea, mountains, forest, and the mystique of the end of the world — and it’s especially great in winter for those seeking snow and skiing.
If you’re doing both, the most popular order is Ushuaia first, El Calafate after: you start with the rainiest destination and finish with the grand finale at Perito Moreno. The logistics also favor this order, since many return flights to Buenos Aires depart from El Calafate with better schedules. If you have 8+ days, you can fit El Chaltén in the middle and complete the full Patagonia triangle. To get a closer look at what the Perito Moreno Glacier delivers, we have a dedicated guide.
Practical tips for Argentine Patagonia
Clothing: layering is a must — thermal base layer, fleece, and a waterproof windbreaker. Even in summer, the wind chill can drop below freezing. Waterproof trekking boots make a real difference in Ushuaia (wet peat bogs at Laguna Esmeralda) and in El Chaltén.
Money: credit cards are accepted at most restaurants and agencies, but bring Argentine pesos in cash for taxis, tips, and small shops. The blue dollar exchange rate in Buenos Aires gets you more than exchanging at each city’s airport. Brazilians don’t need a visa for stays of up to 90 days in Argentina.
Bookings: minitrekking on Perito Moreno and Beagle Channel boat tours sell out in high season — book online at least 2 weeks in advance. Accommodation in El Chaltén also fills up fast between December and February.
Frequently asked questions
Which is better, El Calafate or Ushuaia?
El Calafate is better for those who want the visual impact of massive glaciers, especially Perito Moreno. Ushuaia is better for those seeking landscape diversity — sea, mountains, forest, and snow. For a first trip to Patagonia with limited time, El Calafate is usually the more striking choice.
How many days do I need in El Calafate and Ushuaia?
El Calafate needs 3 full days to see Perito Moreno and the Lake Argentino glaciers — add 2 days if you include El Chaltén. Ushuaia works well with 3 to 4 days, covering the Beagle Channel, Tierra del Fuego National Park, and at least one hike. For both destinations together, plan for 7 to 8 days total.
Can I do El Calafate and Ushuaia on the same trip?
Yes, you can do El Calafate and Ushuaia on the same trip, and it’s the most popular combination in Argentine Patagonia. There’s a direct flight between the two cities (about 1h20 with Aerolíneas Argentinas), though frequency varies by season. Most travelers do Ushuaia first and finish in El Calafate.
What’s the best time to visit Argentine Patagonia?
The best time to visit Argentine Patagonia runs from October to April, peaking in the austral summer between December and February. During this period, days are longer (up to 17 hours of daylight in Ushuaia) and temperatures range between 36 °F and 59 °F. Winter works for those who want to ski in Ushuaia, but many tours in El Calafate close or reduce their hours.
Does it get very cold in El Calafate and Ushuaia?
It gets cold in El Calafate and Ushuaia even in summer — highs rarely exceed 59 °F, and the Patagonian wind can push the wind chill below freezing. In winter, Ushuaia frequently drops to 23 °F. Dress in layers: thermal base layer, mid-layer fleece, and a waterproof windbreaker on top.
Conclusion
If you’re still deciding on countries, duration, and budget, also check out our complete Patagonia itinerary between Argentina and Chile.
El Calafate and Ushuaia don’t compete—they complement each other. If time is short, El Calafate impresses faster with Perito Moreno. If your trip has room for 7 or 8 days, doing both reveals the best of Patagonia: ice, sea, mountains, and forest in a single itinerary. For more Patagonia and Argentina guides, keep exploring here at Voyage Voyage.